From the Exhibition: Introduction
Most people wear sneakers on a daily basis – as casual footwear, as performance sportswear, as style statement or perhaps not worn at all, but purchased to keep as a rare collectible. Few objects are as universal or as diverse, which is one reason why the sneaker has become the undisputed cultural symbol of our times bridging culture, design, fashion, music and technology.
With a global market that has been valued at nearly 80 billion dollars and is predicted to reach 120 billion by 2026, the sneaker industry is the most innovative and fast-paced in the footwear sector. With thousands of new sneaker models in endless colourways released every year, design innovation is key. Designers and inventors continue to push the boundaries, and the speed and scale of this industry means that design innovations get implemented quickly and on a large scale. Yet the journey from design concept to production and launch is a complicated process that could take several years.
The history of sneakers begins in the world of sports, where design to improve athletic performance was at the forefront. But over the last forty years youth cultures across the globe have increasingly influenced the shape and speed of the industry. Many iconic sneakers originally designed for specific athletic activities were adopted by young people who transformed sneakers into style icons that have become an important vehicle to express one’s identity.
The story of the sneaker is a reflection of cultural, societal and technological change. From the power of sneakers to reinforce a sense of belonging and style, to their ability to improve athletic performance, this exhibition traces the history, journey and future of the sneaker from sportswear staple to cultural icon and fashion statement. And it highlights the design stories and people behind some of the most culturally and technologically significant sneakers ever made.
State of Play
The sneaker industry is vast. It has grown exponentially over the last two decades and shows no sign of slowing down. In 2021, for example, about 1.2 billion sneakers were sold worldwide which is almost double the amount of sneakers sold in 2012.
Much of the industry’s expansion is based on a unique combination of consumer demand and strategic marketing by competing brands. However, there are instances where a sneaker model has risen to prominence mainly thanks to its cultural value. One example of this is the Nike Air Force 1, which is credited with being the sneaker model released in the greatest number of different versions.
Sneaker resale has become an industry in its own right, with online platforms such as StockX achieving record prices and releasing certain models on their platform only. The largest profits are driven by a thirst for exclusivity in a market worth an estimated $10 billion (€9.2 billion).
StockX
In its 5-year history, StockX has facilitated the trading of millions of sneakers. The data gathered and analysed from these transactions builds a picture of the growth and changing trends of the secondary sneaker market.
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Sneakers…they sneak into your closet
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At the intersection of sustainability and design
Shoes made from sustainable materials such as apple leather, mushroom leather and recycled rubber are increasingly seen as an alternative to animal leather. What is the potential and what are the challenges?
My shoes tell lies about my childhood
A reflection on Elisa van Joolen’s PORTAL 012 workshop, by writer Emma van Meyeren and photographer Nikola Lamburov.
How our trainers are running the world into the ground
In een wereld waar het draait om minimale marges tussen winst en verlies, delft het milieu vaak het onderspit. Fabrikanten denken vooral in winst, niet in verlies en al helemaal niet in verlies voor de planeet. Dat geldt ook voor de maker van je hypermoderne stampers.
NFTs of virtual sneakers
Nike, Adidas and Puma, but also new brands are focusing on them: NFT sneakers, or virtual sneakers. Such a sneaker is a unique digital “non-fungible token” (NFT), a concept that is increasingly common in the art and fashion world. The digital shoe can be saved and later sold or worn by gamers in the metaverse…
Why Can’t Sneakers be Gender Neutral?
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Controversial sneakers
Some were banned, while others stir up very strong emotions, and then there are also lawsuits between makers and brands.
The exhibition design by Koehorst in ‘t Veld
Designers Janntje and Toon talk about the exhibition design, details and challenges.
Facts from the sneaker industry
The sneaker industry is vast. It has grown exponentially over the last two decades and shows no sign of slowing down. In 2021, for example, about 1.2 billion sneakers were sold worldwide which is almost double the amount of sneakers sold in 2012.
Sneaker Dictionary
In our sneaker dictionary you will find an overview of the most important, most used and sometimes just plain fun words.
Sneaker Anatomy
Everyone can point out the sole of a sneaker, but what about the upper? Where is the mustache? And what do the eyelet and the aglet have in common? Find out in this sneaker anatomy.
Sneakers since the 00’s
Still the sneaker’s popularity remains undiminished, especially among young people. Worldwide subcultures keep adding specific models to their daily uniform.
Sneakers in the 90s
In the 1990s, the sneaker gained a foothold in the Netherlands thanks to gabbers and bubbling, but a unique way of styling the sneaker also emerged in London.
Sneakers in the 80s
When sneaker brands realized the popularity among young people, they tried to entice them by using musicians and athletes as role models.
Sneakers in the 70s
Sneaker culture has become ubiquitous thanks largely to the influence of young people from diverse inner-city neighbourhoods. They have been instrumental in elevating sneakers from pure sportswear to sought-after icons of style.
Dive Deeper into Sneaker Culture, Watch This
Nowadays, sneaker culture is a global phenomenon, but it was born locally, even before the rise of the internet. The series Sole Origins takes you to the cities that have had a great impact on this.
From the Exhibition: Style
Sneaker culture has become ubiquitous thanks largely to the influence of young people from diverse inner-city neighbourhoods. They have been instrumental in elevating sneakers from pure sportswear to sought-after icons of style.
From the Exhibition: Performance
Most sports shoes that we now consider groundbreaking arose from solving core design concerns, such as traction, fit, stability, cushioning and energy return can help to improve athletic performance.
From the Exhibition: Tipping Point
In the 1990s major sports brands ventured outside their comfort zone, entering into exclusive partnerships with small retailers and progressive fashion designers.
From the Exhibition: Sustainability and Circular Design
The sneaker industry is environmentally damaging, but there are many hopeful projects to address these problems.
