Still the sneaker’s popularity remains undiminished, especially among young people. Worldwide subcultures keep adding specific models to their daily uniform. In the meantime, the styles vary enormously, but after 50 years exclusivity remains one of the most important values among sneakerheads.
Grime
At the turn of the millennium, the music genre of grime emerged in the UK. Both musically and sartorially, it was a rejection of the flamboyance of the jungle and garage music scenes that preceded it. Hooded tracksuits were paired with Nike Air Max models, dubbed ‘one-tens’ for their £110 price tag (around € 130). This look evolved into a monochrome uniform of black tracksuits worn with matching all-black Nike Air Huaraches, Prada Linea Rossa America’s Cups or Air Max BWs, as immortalised on the cover of grime artist Dizzee Rascal’s album Boy in da Corner (2003).
Cholombianos
‘Cholombianos’ refers to a unique youth culture in Monterrey, Mexico, named after a slowed-down version of Colombian cumbia and vallenato music. Teenage fans have developed a distinctive form of sartorial expression. They favour shirts and t-shirts with overt religious iconography, hand-woven necklaces emblazoned with names, and dramatically gelled hairstyles, paired with customised or colour-matched Converse Chuck Taylor All Stars.
Bubble Koppe
Certain sneakers continue to find resonance with youth cultures around the world, who create local identities despite limited access to the latest models. Forgotten and obscure Nike silhouettes with the design feature known as ‘visible air’ or ‘bubbles’ has found a following since the 2010s in the Cape Flats suburb of Cape Town, South Africa. Devotees, now known as Bubble Koppe (‘Bubble Heads’), started a Facebook group that has grown into a scene with regular events and meetups between collectors.
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Sneakers…they sneak into your closet
Nancy Bocken is professor of Sustainable Business at Maastricht University. For the Third Floor, she interprets the impact of the fashion industry on the environment and she shares tips on how both the government, sneaker brands and sneaker lovers can make more sustainable choices.
At the intersection of sustainability and design
Shoes made from sustainable materials such as apple leather, mushroom leather and recycled rubber are increasingly seen as an alternative to animal leather. What is the potential and what are the challenges?
My shoes tell lies about my childhood
A reflection on Elisa van Joolen’s PORTAL 012 workshop, by writer Emma van Meyeren and photographer Nikola Lamburov.
How our trainers are running the world into the ground
In een wereld waar het draait om minimale marges tussen winst en verlies, delft het milieu vaak het onderspit. Fabrikanten denken vooral in winst, niet in verlies en al helemaal niet in verlies voor de planeet. Dat geldt ook voor de maker van je hypermoderne stampers.
NFTs of virtual sneakers
Nike, Adidas and Puma, but also new brands are focusing on them: NFT sneakers, or virtual sneakers. Such a sneaker is a unique digital “non-fungible token” (NFT), a concept that is increasingly common in the art and fashion world. The digital shoe can be saved and later sold or worn by gamers in the metaverse…
Why Can’t Sneakers be Gender Neutral?
Titi Finlay is a London based content creator, sneakerhead and sneaker activist working. For the Third Floor she tries to answer the question: why can’t sneakers be gender neutral?
Controversial sneakers
Some were banned, while others stir up very strong emotions, and then there are also lawsuits between makers and brands.
The exhibition design by Koehorst in ‘t Veld
Designers Janntje and Toon talk about the exhibition design, details and challenges.
Facts from the sneaker industry
The sneaker industry is vast. It has grown exponentially over the last two decades and shows no sign of slowing down. In 2021, for example, about 1.2 billion sneakers were sold worldwide which is almost double the amount of sneakers sold in 2012.
Sneaker Dictionary
In our sneaker dictionary you will find an overview of the most important, most used and sometimes just plain fun words.
Sneaker Anatomy
Everyone can point out the sole of a sneaker, but what about the upper? Where is the mustache? And what do the eyelet and the aglet have in common? Find out in this sneaker anatomy.
Sneakers in the 90s
In the 1990s, the sneaker gained a foothold in the Netherlands thanks to gabbers and bubbling, but a unique way of styling the sneaker also emerged in London.
Sneakers in the 80s
When sneaker brands realized the popularity among young people, they tried to entice them by using musicians and athletes as role models.
Sneakers in the 70s
Sneaker culture has become ubiquitous thanks largely to the influence of young people from diverse inner-city neighbourhoods. They have been instrumental in elevating sneakers from pure sportswear to sought-after icons of style.
Dive Deeper into Sneaker Culture, Watch This
Nowadays, sneaker culture is a global phenomenon, but it was born locally, even before the rise of the internet. The series Sole Origins takes you to the cities that have had a great impact on this.
From the Exhibition: Introduction
Few objects are as universal or as diverse as the sneaker. Which is one reason why the sneaker has become the undisputed cultural symbol of our times, bridging culture, design, fashion, music and technology.
From the Exhibition: Style
Sneaker culture has become ubiquitous thanks largely to the influence of young people from diverse inner-city neighbourhoods. They have been instrumental in elevating sneakers from pure sportswear to sought-after icons of style.
From the Exhibition: Performance
Most sports shoes that we now consider groundbreaking arose from solving core design concerns, such as traction, fit, stability, cushioning and energy return can help to improve athletic performance.
From the Exhibition: Tipping Point
In the 1990s major sports brands ventured outside their comfort zone, entering into exclusive partnerships with small retailers and progressive fashion designers.
From the Exhibition: Sustainability and Circular Design
The sneaker industry is environmentally damaging, but there are many hopeful projects to address these problems.
